Now, how to erase it is the question, and germicidal lamps are the answer. Hardly. So then that “secret pen” that issues invisible ink at one end and a UV light t the other end isn’t good enough? 0000000016 00000 n I bought a box off the bay for hardly anything and it only takes a few min to erase a whole batch of chips, but if you only ever need to do this once in a blue moon why not give it a try. Shorter = more energy, which should mean more effective curing. TangDe liked My Build log : Jubilee 3D Printer. Bulbs for killing germs seemed to be a common source of erasing bulbs forty years ago. It works, takes about a half hour to do the job, the chips are placed a bit over an inch from the bulb. For a more traditional solution, I got an eraser for about $15 at https://www.aliexpress.com/af/eprom-eraser.html. Programmers use an EPROM programmer to write data on the EPROM. Thats what I use to do back in the day. 1 Connect the eraser to the domestic mains supply. 0000192261 00000 n EPROM includes a rock crystal crystal window at the top. 2. The EPROM pack is pushed right into the eraser to turn on the light and erase the pack. Blue LEDs were around as early as 1972. EPROMS were placed in a drawer which was then closed and the timer set for 20 or 30 minutes, after which time the devices were completely erased. Lol I had dug my EPROM eraser out only a couple of days ago and dusted it off to try and cure some UV glue but the wavelength of the eraser was too short for the glue :(. My boss knows some EE prof at Purdue and I get the real thing, one of the little 4 watt tubular bulbs with a timer in thirty minute intervals. EEPROM are totally encased in an opaque plastic case. No kidding…even if you’re good enough to not have much spatter…the sunburn you get immediately if you don’t have gloves is one you don’t soon forget – that’s a lotta output in the short end of the spectrum. I also can not see how an UVA LED should be able to erase an EPROM. Fortunately, old electronics are highly resistant to abuse, so he pulled out the obvious equipment to erase this chip, a 300 watt tanning lamp. I’m sure they were not cheap then. So I do not need to use my dangerous 4W UV/C low pressure quicksilver tube. So only a fraction of the power went to the UV tube. So I left them in overnight. Mount a programmed Eprom on the antistatic foam in the tray of the ME5E eraser. Do you have a source for a ‘blue-violet’ led in the ’70s. If you only need to do one you can just put it out in the sun for a day. I should first mention that a tolerable eprom-eraser for massive chip erasing up to 4-8 chips in approximately 10 minutes would cost about 13-22 euros on Amazon. I built it out of a cheap under the counter fixture that used a neon starter tube. startxref But that’s obsolete for me anway. 0000284241 00000 n I do remember leaving some out in the sun all afternoon and then testing them, and it did work. Fortunately his application was tolerant of garbage data and he used it anyway. Leaving eproms out in the sun long enough was said to work. It works fine, erasing most chips in 20 minutes or so. It eventually worked, allowing [Charles]’ project, a vintage liquid crystal display, to have the right data using vintage-correct parts. It takes some time to erase the data in EPROM. ERASES UP TO 9 CHIPS IN 11 MIN. Nice to know that the UV LED’s can do it as well. 0000004266 00000 n 0000251161 00000 n xref 2. I erased an AMD AM27C400 by placing it in a laser engraver, setting the laser to about 2% (very low power) and setting it to try and engrave a dark black square directly over the eprom window – 2 very fast passes and about 20 seconds later and I had a completely blank eprom that I could then write to. Probably the 300W bulb was a combined mercury vapor tube and a tungsten filament used as ballast for the discharge tube. Maybe that’s what this guy used. 0000284219 00000 n The HAD write-up is misleading (presently). With this vintage chip erased, [Charles] slapped together an EPROM programmer — with a programming voltage of 21V — out of an ATMega and a bench power supply. The history books have that blue LEDs were not commercially available until the mid-90s. The conversion consisted in removing the IR radiator, which was used as resistive ballast for the lamp and replacing it with two parallel fluorescent tube chokes. 1. They are UV-A and long UV-B emitting. For example asking manicure salon staff to expose chip in UV nail-polish dryer. A 280-nm UV LED on Digikey goes for about $150 now. Just leave them in the sun a couple days and they will be erased. Back in the early 1990s, I tried erasing EEPROMs with UV florescent tubes, which I normally used to expose photoresist for PCB etching. Each color was a different process, it took “forever” before blue and white (I recall in that order) arrived. 4. Computer memory that can retrieve stored data after a power supply has been turned off and back on is called non-volatile. The EPROM pack has a hole to expose the window on the EPROM device inside the pack to allow the light from the eraser to erase the EPROM. About ten years ago, I tried sunlight erasure in NY in the summer, and there was zero data loss after a week of mostly sunny days. EEPROM area unit wholly sheathed in an opaque plastic case. The price, though, is what would really impress them. All EPROMs are UV, and the one in the picture at the top of the page, for example, is plastic. These erased with the 253.7nm mercury line. Leap Eprom Eraser … PixJuan has updated the project titled USB Crank-Stick. Build your own chip eraser using components that would have blown minds back in the 70s. 0000002472 00000 n brand geological prospecting / mining light to erase my 2708s and it worked very well. Using other hardware, the data could be backed up to PC before erasing. Those 3W UV flashlights are pretty cheap on eBay, they’re very good for curing UV glue, I guess they would work fine on EPROMs too. EEPROM contents are erased using electronic signal. The device was from the 1970ies. <<74D9A0F1B9DF3D48AFD4D97F26EB94A7>]>> You can still buy 254 nm Mercury tube lights cheaply — they are in those surface sanitizers (which you can get for a few bucks) and work great on EPROMS. Leave them outside in the sun for a couple days and they will be erased as well. In fact, all of them were a perfect verify against the original HEX file. Sorting. Glue a fat UV LED to an EPROM and sell it as EEPROM! Depends on the tube. The EPROM needs UV light to erase the data. If it were digital, we would only have an empty room or a room … When the time comes to erase the EPROM, just pop it under an ultraviolet (UV) bulb for 30 … The way they work is that every time you write one or more bytes in a page, that page is erased and rewritten with the old content + new content. The description had my hopes up. Still, it works for my uses but I would not leave it unattended! No, I don’t. We learned about that in high school. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Your mileage may vary but it worked for me when all my attempts with uv lamps etc failed. The eraser operation will not affect the programming unit and both may be in use simultaneously. I paid $10 for my first blue LED in the early 90’s. These old Mercury-Lamp + Heater Combos drove the mercury quite hard which increased the temperature and pressure inside to a point where the mercury itself started to absorb a large portion of it’s shorter-wavelength emissions. I built an aluminum box to house the fixture in, with a slide in tray to put the eproms in. 0000098807 00000 n It is not possible to erase a particular byte of data in EPROM. 0 Unlike PROM (Programmable Read only Memory) It is possible to erase the data from a volatile EPROM by exposing it to a high-powered ultraviolet light source through a device known as an EPROM eraser. According to Wikipedia, the 68000 was “introduced” in 1979, but initial samples shipped in February 1980 and first production began in November. In my experience, inexpensive UV LEDs are too long-wavelength to do the job. This product is designed to erase programmable IC's such as EPROM's and micro-controllers, which can be erased, when exposed to high intensity UV light. Our ability to generate UV light has improved dramatically over the last fifty years, and [Charles] remembered he had an assortment of LEDs, including a few tiny 5mW UV LEDs. Tanning bulbs and Germicidal lamps shouldn’t be looked at without eye protection, and you shouldn’t even let the light from the Germicidal lamps on your skin. I had a PAR UV light (75-150watt) with a heavy ballast, I’ve seen bouncers with their magic invisible markers using said item. 2 Fully insert the EPROM card into the slot on the front of the eraser, with the round hole uppermost. In the 70ies you had red, green and yellow LEDs. I know for certain I got generic 7 segment LED readouts surplus in 1974, and by then they were “cheap”. Probably because, given his location, he may be lacking in the sun department at this time of the year (I’ve barely seen it over the last week myself). Erasure works on the whole EPROM not individual bits. :) LOL! EPROM typically is burned out-of-circuit in a programming fixture. This also erased the eprom. 0000004444 00000 n The spectrum of iron is educational – lookit all that stuff at the top. This was in 1997, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuji_Nakamura. Relative size of cell in EPROM is one. It is an array of floating-gate transistors individually programmed by an electronic device that supplies higher voltages than … Spectroline PE-14T/F - EPROM Eraser, UV Eraser. To erase an EPROM chip it must have a glass window. The vast majority of them are ceramic but there are resin cased eproms with windows. Sunlight erasure probably works much better at higher altitudes… like Everest maybe. Early models of the microbee used EPROMs before being replaced with cheaper masked programed ROMs. When programming a bit we can only change a 1 to a 0 because changing a 0 to a 1 requires erasing. But if you don’t have it laying around and you have to wait for 20 days for it to arrive, I guess I’d try some other options. Big Clive got a 4 quid UV nail polish setter off Ebay and says he erases EPROMs with it. The whole data is deleted. So I was inspired by this article and thread to try it with LEDs myself… failed, then decided to use a *much higher power* device: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_p5RIVnl9A. I am the author of the article. Where I live we get like 60 sunny days a year. 0000283983 00000 n [Charles] got his hands on an old 2764 EPROM for a project, but this chip had a problem — there was still data on it. This can’t be done using electrical signals. The Idea here is to use a structure to store data at a specific EEPROM address. Probably older UV LEDs. I recall an article in the mid-70s about rejuvenating eproms. It wasn’t until he bought a 3W LED that he was able to erase everything quickly. UV EPROM Eraser Ultraviolet EPROM Eraser EPROM Erasable Timer How to us UV EPROM Eraser Ultraviolet EPROM Eraser: 1. You can also get a nice UV-C source from old streetlights (the kind that doesn’t use sodium), they have an outer shell coated with phosphor (you gently break that off) and the inside is a mercury arc lamp made from quarts…, Just watch out for the exposed leads with line voltage ;-). RCA had a blue LED in the 70s. In my experience, most commercial EPROM erasers take 10-20 minutes to do a reliable erasure regardless of whether you are erasing PIC micros, EPROM's (like 27C256)or any other windowed device. I married it to an IR receiver taken from an old VCR and made a “remote control tester”. The Eprom Field Kit includes the EPROM+ software, manual, power pack, and cable. Hi, I tried the same experiment back when blue LEDs (and the incidental UV emission when pulsed) became available. BTW UVEproms ARE in ceramic cases, but some most are dyed black, and it the seams are done right you can’t see them, so they might look like plastic, especially if they are coated with a smooth paint. 0000251183 00000 n 0000250921 00000 n To erase an EPROM. According to your link practical blue LED’s finally became available around 1993. In 1972, not much was available. You could order an appropriate light source and have it shipped to you much faster. By driving it with a ballast you dropped the power considerably thereby enabling it to emit harder UV. My bad — I found another for $2.67. Press down the Power Switch to “ON” (for 6pcs type only). The current commercial BK Precision 851 UV eraser uses a 10W bulb (https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/43/851_datasheet-16963.pdf). By using our website and services, you expressly agree to the placement of our performance, functionality and advertising cookies. Then I tried leaving them under the UV lights for a whole week. (Probably the same for long term exposure with the tanning bulbs!). The Motorola 68000, probably the most popular chip to come out of the 70s, has a shitload more performance than an atmega32. Leap Eprom Eraser LER121A. Need an EEPROM eraser? Yes; the LED had the right frequency to flip a bit, and erasing an EPROM is a function of intensity and time. 5. I still have it. They were still working on making LEDs good, especially in terms of output. The High-Tech Valor Glass Vials Used To Deliver The Coronavirus Vaccine, Remoticon Video: Meta_Processing Is A Mashup Of Text And Block Programming, Inputs Of Interest: DecaTxt Ultra-Portable Chording Keyboard, Dog Bowls Show The Versatility Of Ceramic Slip Casting, Xbox Controller Mod Gets Serious About Stick Drift, Custom Controller Makes Turbomolecular Pump Suck, The Last Component Storage System You’d Ever Need. An EPROM that is left under too long can become over-erased. There were no blue or violet LED’s prior to the modern LED revolution created by Nakamura, Akasaki, and Amano in the early 21st century. Problem solved. Only way to Erase an EPROM is to put it in a UV eraser for Min 30 Minutes after removing the stickers on top of the EPROM chips. 0000001392 00000 n Just set the dryer to lite fluff and the chip is erased while I watch my stories haha. These functions make it trivial to store and retrieve the structure data to/from the EEPROM.

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